Canal Walk: Appley Bridge to Burscough 6 miles

Today I was dog sitting. But Troy doesn't like being sat on so we went for a walk instead. We took the train from Burscough to Appley Bridge, it cost £3.10 to go 3 stops down the line but Troy travelled for free and only left a few dog hairs on the seat.  Off the train in Appley Bridge and we walked down the hill to the canal. Troy claimed most of the gate posts and a recycling box (sorry!) as his property. 

Troy 29.5 miles from Liverpool

On the towpath and it was getting warm as we set off towards Burscough.
The towpath was quite busy with walkers, dogs and cyclists but hardly crowded. It was nice to be somewhere so quiet, no traffic and no seagulls. The only interruption to the quiet was the occasional passing train. The two shallow locks at Appley Locks are looking worse every time I see them, which is a shame. 

Troy heads towards Gillibrand Bridge

In Parbold Troy noticed a World War Two post hole. The WW2 concrete is quite lumpy, with more stones than cement. Set vertically in the concrete is a pipe, probably a sewage pipe or similar. A post would have been dropped into this to block off the towpath at night. The posts would have had barbed wire attached. Next to the post holes is a concrete cube.

WW2 HomeGuard Roadblock Post Hole

We passed a lot of purple plants, Rosebay Willowherb, Marsh Woundwort, Common Vetch, Himalayan balsam and Troy weed on many of them. We were soon through Parbold and we stopped for a drink of water by the concrete pill box that guards the bend. 

Pill Box by the Canal

Approaching Spencers Swing Bridge we heard the sound of Happy Birthday being played on a brass instrument wafting down the canal. We walked past the chap sat next to a boat playing his whateveritwas.  There should be more brass music on the towpath. 
There were some blue damsel flies and a large dragonfly flying about the water. A mystery animal jumped into the canal as we passed it. 
At the 25 miles milepost we overtook a scouser trying to buy drugs from his friend on the phone. 
In Burscough there was a strange floating shed/piano/cupboard. Not something I have ever seen before. 

Piano

Pontoon

Canal Walk: The East End and Olympic Park

Today I went to London for a towpath trek in the East End of London and a look at the almost finished Olympic Park.

the leaving of Liverpool

 My train from Liverpool Lime Street was at the uncivilized hour of 07:15 so it was an early start for me. Walking past one of my local Tesco's I saw the staff chasing after a local smackhead who had knicked someones phone. For once I got to the station just about on time, usually I am far too early or running down the platform. After buying a paper I bumped into a colleague of mine the very talented local artist Colette Lilley, far too early in the day for conversation though. 

The trip down was fine, I had two Richard Herring podcasts that saw me through the whole trip. In no time at all I was in London. Exciting times in the capitol too with the Olympic Games just weeks away now.

View East End Canal Walk in a larger map

I walked from Euston to Holbourne tube station. The forecast hadn't been great for today but the sun was shining and it was warm already. The weather was forecast to improve throughout the day too. Perfect for a nice stroll by the canal.
I like the London Underground. I like the wind that blows through the stair wells and tunnels. I like the Art Deco style and tiles. I like the flesh eating zombies that live down there. I sat on the train trying not to look too much like a tourist. I would love to be one of the book reading commuters living the cosmopolitan lifestyle. But I am not. I am from the North and I am too impressed by seeing the name "Grange Hill" on the tube map. And the Hammersmith and City Line reminds me of Lean On Me I Wont Fall Over a Carter USM song covered by the Family Cat back in the 1990s. Oyster Cards, Londoners dont know how lucky they are to have them.

It didn't take long to get to Mile End and to be back in the sunshine. The canal is a short walk down the road from the tube station. Without thinking I turned left and headed down the Regents Canal to Limehouse. I had the choice of walking clockwise or anti-clockwise on my route. It was only 500 yards along I realised I was going anti-clockwise. As it turned out this was the best way to go.

a little birdhouse on the canal

It was 2008 when I last walked this bit of canal: see blog here and a lot has changed since then. The weather wasn't as good bad then and I managed to miss Canary Wharf due to the low cloud.  Today there was no missing the landmark building.

the start of the Regents Canal

The towpath was quiet from Mile End to Limehouse Basin, just a couple of walkers and runners. At the basin there were a few more people about. It would be a nice place to run around and there were a few people doing just that. I'm sure if I lived here I could manage to do a few laps of the basin every day. 


In the dock there are a variety of boats, some narrowboats and yachts  but there was one boat you couldn't miss. A huge white gin palace. 

Great White Whale

As well as the great white whale there were a fleet of grey fiberglass taxi boats which will take people from Limehouse up to the Olympic Park. There were some larger boats too that look ready to take the crowds to the Games. It is nice that the canal will be used as transport. Although there have been some downsides for canal users.

Water Taxis

Walking round the basin I arrived at the Limehouse Cut. The Limehouse Cut is a new canal to me, I have never set foot on it and didn't know anything about what the surroundings were like. The area around the basin is made up of new apartment buildings that are well out of my price range. There was also a pill bug walking along the decking looking rather out of place in such a modern area.

At the start of the Limehouse Cut

Once round the first bend the Limehouse Cut is a long straight stretch (over a mile) up to Bow Locks and the tidal Bow Creek. This stretch of canal is perhapse a bit dull for canal fans. The towpath is good and perfect for cyclists. The area has clearly been recently regenerated. I kept imagining that Bootle or Vauxhall could look like this. There were still some old warehouses and signs of industry but most of it was very new apartment and houses. 

the last bit of dereliction

There was a short terrace of modern houses, one on each side of the canal facing each other. This was the first place I had seen anyone who looked like they lived there. Most of the women were Muslims in bright coloured clothes. Two were authentic cockerneys though, they were having a conversation across the canal. As I walked underneath the debate seemed to be about the time it would take to get from A to B via C. The conclusion was "oh for facks sake". 

Past the sweary women I saw something I didnt expect on a canal in London, a Challenger tank. Not just the Challenger but a few scout cars and little tanks. 

Challenger Tank and friends

Armored transport

At the end of the Limehouse Cut is Bow Locks. It was nice to see some canal architecture after the long straight channel so far. The locks have a nice 1930s feel to them, with the little cabin and the concrete bridge over the canal. It can get a bit confusing around here. I had just left the Limehouse Cut, on the right was the Bow Creek. I think I was now following the River Lee Navigation. But not the River Lea. Anyway onwards.

Rail Bridge on the Lee Navigation

There were a few more people around at this point, fishing, walking dogs, looking like they were having an afternoon out in the sunshine. 

At 11:40 I arrived at 3 Mills. At 3 Mills there are two mills, House Mill (1776) and Clock Mill (1817) The missing third mill went in the 16thC but the name has stuck. 

The buildings look like they should be in a nice rural village. The site is now used for television and film production. House Mill is open to visitors on Sundays and is the largest tidal powered mill in the world but the new lock on Prescott Channel mean it has lost its tidal aspect. 

After a bit of a sit down I carried on along the Lee Navigation. beyond 3 Mills I started to see signs of construction and then the first sight of an Olympic building. The ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower looks like two construction cranes mating, or maybe St Johns Beacon being attacked by a crane. Either way its pretty big, 115metres high.

There were a few working boats, showing that the canal has been used in the construction of the Olympic Park. The whole redevelopment seems to have been very positive for this area.

Bantum Tugs

I had wondered if the towpath on my route would be open during the construction of the Olympic Park, in fact I didn't even know if there was a towpath for some sections. I came to a sign which warned of towpath closures in just 3 days time. I was lucky to have picked this weekend to come and not next. There was a floating roadblock to stop boaters entering the site. 

Soon the towpath was joined by a high wire fence with CCTV cameras at short intervals all the way along it. There were some security guards in hi-viz jackets and the area had the feel of a large event in the waiting. To add to this music from the Olympic Stadium was drifting over towards me. The sort of corporate event music you hear in large events and nowhere else. 

Canal block ready to stop traffic. 

Towpath Closures.

Modified Art

Big Brother is Watching You

At Old Ford Lock the towpath seems very close to the Olympic Stadium. But there is another very important building here. The lock keepers house by Old Ford Lock is the former Big Breakfast house. Now largely hidden by a high hedge, this is where Chris Evans and friends used to entertain 1990s Britain in the morning. The canal was occasionally used in the show for watery features and the area was shown in the opening and closing titles.

Old Ford Lock Keepers Cottages

Flowers

Not far after Old Ford Lock is junction with the Hertford Union Canal. There were police walking along the towpath searching for bombs. At the bridge where the towpath crosses over to the Hertford Union the towpath ahead along the Lee navigation was closed and more hi-viz jackets were stood around directing people. There was a very heavy duty road block too, and a police man that looked like he was cradling a machine gun. Security will be very high around here.

Gongoozlers looking at the Olympic Park

Crossing over to the Hertford Union Canal the towpath felt a bit calmer. There were some little sculptures on the canal edge. Little men stood looking at the view or relaxing in the sunshine. I like art that has to be discovered. Finding something by accident is always a rewarding surprise. 

There were a few boats moored up here, they looked like boats that people lived on. A lot of boaters have been moved or will have to move because of the Games. Not just for security but also for profit. I can understand why these boaters are unhappy about this but they are at least lucky to live on boats which can move. In other countries people have had their houses demolished to build venues for the Eurovision Song Contest or a Bible Theme Park. Hopefully these boaters, or liveaboards, can move back to an improved environment when the Games are over. 

Not all art is as nice as the little men, some of the graffiti was quite eye-catching if not anatomically correct. 

Walking along I was stopped by a lady looking for an entrance to the Olympic Park. After comparing her map to my Nicholsons we worked out where she should go. Even on my days off I am supporting people with information. 

The Hertford Union Canal borders the rather lovely Victoria Park. The towpath was much busier here and there were a lot of boats moored up with various types of people enjoying the sunshine.

The canal has a nice atmosphere by the park and some visiting Africans looked very impressed with it. 

Along the railings of Victoria Park were notices, Advice Notices, for boater who will be relocated during the Games. Most had had the boaters opinion added to them. There will be a 15 mile zone around the games in which boaters will have to pay quite high mooring fees during the Games. Boaters not wanting to pay will have to move. Some of the people who live on the boats think that the Olympic Games are just a excuse to "socially cleanse" them from this section of canal. I can understand why people who have paid for permanent moorings are upset by having to move. Continuous cruisers should of course spend no longer than 2 weeks in one lace so they should be quite used to moving about. Link to an article about the issue.

I left the Hertford Union Canal, another canal I have walked completely.My original plan was to head back to Mile End, completing the circuit and getting the tube back to the west end. But as the sun was so lovely and I had nothing better to do so I turned right instead of left and headed off to Islington along the Regents Canal.

Samuel House: I am Here

Samuel House by the canal in Haggerston caught my eye. While waiting for its demolition the flats have not been re-let when tenants leave. One by one the windows were boarded up. As a response to this the I Am Here project put pictures of the tenants in the windows to remind everyone that these were and still are peoples homes. 

I am a fan of twitter and one of the accounts I follow is @gusthefox he is a disgusting fox who lives near the canal in London. I was delighted to see a sign pointing out where Gus the fox had bummed a heron. He does that sort of thing. 

@gusthefox

The Regents Canal is very nice, it is up there in my top 3 canals. There is very little left from its old industrial days, the slums and the factories and warehouses. What is left has been reused and restored in a sympathetic and modern way. The canal has not been ignored in the areas regeneration and is a very popular environment for people to use. If only all urban canals were so well used. 

Floating bookshop

Nearing Islington I found a floating bookshop with a floating cafe next door to it. By now I was getting a bit hot an weary. And hungry. I hadn't had any lunch and I was starting to think about food. As i trudged along someone called my name. Not what I expected hundreds of miles from home. Especially as the only person I know in London was in Ireland this weekend. But it was nice to bump into a friend and former colleague for the second time today even if after a 10 mile walk in the sun I wasn't quite looking my best. 

A welcome pint of IPA

At Islington the canal goes underground. I went overground and got a surprisingly cheap lunch from a newsagent on the way. On the other side of the tunnel the promise of a pint in the Constitution kept me going. There have been a few changes along the canal since my last trek along here. The towpath around Kings Cross has been done up and looks pretty good now. This seems to be the plan. There is a new bridge and improved access.

Again the canal is improving despite the economic climate. Once a canal is open and available it will get used and the more it is used the better it is for everyone.

At last I was nearing the Constitution. If I hadn't walked 11 miles in the sunshine I probably would have sat out in the beer garden. But the comfy seat inside was perfect. My feet appreciated the rest and the rest of me appreciated the pint.

The Constitution, Camden

After my pint I was ready to carry on to Camden and the end of the line for me. Around Camden the towpath was packed with people enjoying a rare sunny summer day. I walked past the old TV-AM studios and up to Camden high street. The market was even busier. Too busy for me so I didn't even attempt to look around. 

Canal at Camden next to the former TV-Am studios

I walked back down to Euston and then on to the British Museum. I had a mint Magnum and sat in one of Bloomsbury's lovely squares. There in the square the homeless sat alongside the tourists, all enjoying a nice sit down in the sunshine. I couldn't wait to get back on the train and a comfy sit down. Another two podcasts got me back to Liverpool and home. 

It was a good day out. The weather was amazing. I would recommend the East End for a walk, or maybe better as a cycle. I had thought about getting one of  Boris' bikes. They do seem to be popular, quite a few passed me on the towpath. The Olympic Park looks to be a very positive development for that bit of London. There has been enough criticism of the Games but I hope that the legacy for the canal will be positive and last for decades.

Manchester - Oxford Road to Waters Meeting

Last weekend I went from Liverpool to York by train. On the way I saw a lot of canals, the Sankey Brook, the Bridgewater, Rochdale, Calder and Hebble, Huddersfield Narrow and Broad and the Leeds and Liverpool Canals. Passing through Manchester city centre I decided it was about time to visit our neighbour's canals. So this weekend I took the train to Manchester Oxford Road. I dont know Manchester; I only visit rarely for concerts, and last time I had a terrible time with transport that put me off returning for years.
The only time I have visited the canal was the IWA National rally in 1988 at Castlefield when I was 12.
The canal runs underneath Oxford Road so it only took a minute to get to the towpath from the station. The canal passes through the huge Victorian buildings like a river through a canyon.

Looking up to Oxford Road

This canal is the Rochdale Canal and is notable in Manchester for its locks. We passed a few as we walked towards Castlefield. The towpath was quiet, not many people and no bikes. There were a few ducks and some nice houses built for them.

Duck House

site of the hacienda

Approaching Castlefield the canal started to look more familiar. This is where we moored in 1988. The high railway bridges are particularly impressive. I really liked the use of the railway arches by lock 91, its a clever use of space and the industrial architecture works well with the modern bars and clubs.

Former Canal Tunnel

There is a short arm of the canal by one of the huge bridges, at the end of the arm is a low tunnel in the rock. This was once a canal tunnel built by Brindley. The water level was lower when it was in use.

Former Saw Mill Building with a more modern building behind

Lock 92 Dukes Lock

At Castlefield the Rochdale Canal meets the Bridgewater Canal. The area around Castlefield has changed a bit since 1988. There are lots of nice trendy bars by the canal and I can imagine the area is very popular on summers evenings.

Canal-side living

We carried on past Castlefield following the Bridgewater Canal. Manchester's large Victorian buildings are soon left behind and the area around the canal opens out. The new Metrolink tramway follows the canal heading to Salford Quays which you can see in the distance. The towpath got muddier on this stretch but wasn't too bad. The sun hadn't got to the towpath and the puddles were still frozen and the grass was covered in frost. This bit of canal is a bit boring.
We were reminded that it was match day as we got to the pleasingly named Throstles Nest bridge. Old Trafford, home of Manchester United is right next to the canal. In fact it is so close you can get a boat there from the city centre. People were inside the ground eating in the restaurants, prawn sandwiches no doubt. The streets and bridges were full of people making their way to the ground.
After Old Trafford the towpath's condition got much worse. It was very wet and muddy. I dont think I would have fancied it on a bike though the tyre tracks suggested it was a popular route. Still the danger of slipping or falling in the canal made up for the rather dull canal.
We reached Waters Meeting which is also pleasingly named. here the Bridgewater splits up and heads off to Leigh and the Leeds & Liverpool Canal, or Lymm and Preston Brook or back to Manchester. There isn't much to look at here, three black canals meet under the bridges.
We had a Mars Bar and took some uninspiring photos and then headed back to Manchester.
Its funny how the walk back always seems much quicker than the outward trip. As we passed Old Trafford the team names were being read out, we couldn't hear the announcement but could tell when Wayne Rooney's name was called as the crowd cheered twice as loud as for the rest. The trip boats were disgorging the last of their boozed up football fans.
Back at Castlefield we had a look at the two Leeds and Liverpool Canal boats. One was the Irwell, a short/wide boat the other had no name but I have since found out it is a long boat originally called A37 and later became Isis.
The high railway bridges are very impressive. The railway engineers knew what they were doing and knew how to do it with style.
We stopped off at Dukes 92, one of the trendy bars. The fish and chips was very nice and even came with a small bucket of chips.
I enjoyed Manchester and I will be back to walk the other way and see its famous Canal Street...

Canal Walk: Botany Bay to Bridge 74A

One of the nice things about having my website about the Leeds and Liverpool Canal (and other canals) is the emails I get from people with their own interests. I have had emails from people interested in tunnels, water towers, milestones and World War Two defences. Today I got an email from someone with probably the most specific interest: Skew arch bridges. His interest was in Bridge 74A, a railway bridge between Adlington and Chorley on the former Lancaster Canal Southern Section, now the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. Along with a lot of interesting information about skew arch bridges there was a request for a photo of bridge 74A for the wikipedia page. Not a problem. 

Botany Bay

The lucky coincidence was that I was planning to visit some canal pubs today, one in Adlington and a couple by Chorley. While in the area I could walk the mile and a half to bridge 74A and take a few photos. 

milepost

We arrived at Botany Bay at lunchtime but after a big breakfast we weren't hungry so what better way to work up an appetite than a walk on the canal. We parked in the car park of the Lock & Quay pub, formerly the Railway. We crossed the bridge and walked down the steep cobbles to the towpath. The towpath mud was still frozen making walking a bit easier.

Not far along we came across a half mile post, 45.5 miles from Pall Mall in Liverpool. I couldn't remember seeing this one before so took a photo. 

There has been a lot of vegetation cleared and trees felled on this section so there was the chance to find lost mileposts. 

Tree

By Bridge 77, Workhouse Bridge, there were some brand new houses. They were not here last time we visited this section. Much nicer than the workhouse that gave the bridge its name.  We were passed by the worlds fastest Border Collie, zooming along the towpath at incredible speeds. 

Workhouse Bridge

We crossed the aqueduct near Bridge 76, and soon reached our destination at Bridge 74A. A skewed arch allows a railway to cross a canal at an oblique angle. And bridge 74A certainly does that. 

I took some photos, hoping to get whatever details a skew arch fan would appreciate.  

Bridge 74A

Under a Skew Arch

Next to the bridge was a little steam boat.

little boat

With the bridge well photographed we headed back. On the way back I took a slight detour to photo the aqueduct from below. Its hard to get a decent photo of an aqueduct when you are stood on top of it. 

Canal Aqueduct

There are still some impressive mills in Lancashire, but they are a dying breed heading for extinction. 

Crosse Hall Mill (Cotton)

On the subject of bridges, canal bridges are numbered eg 78. New bridges built between the numbered ones are given a letter eg 78A. If a bridge was built between 78 and 78A it would (I think) be 78AA. And if a bridge was built between 78 and 78AA it would be 78AAA. 

bridge 78aaa

We had almost got back to Botany Bay when I noticed a quarter mile post, almost completely buried. This one is 45.75 miles from Liverpool. So in helping one man's obsession I was rewarded with two examples of my own. We got back to the pub and started to review.